pottery town
When we first moved here I heard about a famous pottery festival that had *just happened* before we arrived. I made a note to check it out the following year…
When the reminder popped up last month I started making plans.
The town in southwestern Japan that hosts the event is famous for its blue and white ceramics, including a gorgeous porcelain torii gate.
From what I can gather, Arita became known for ceramics over 400 years ago, when the Japanese military brought Korean potters here to make tea utensils for the lord’s tea ceremonies. At first they had difficulty locating the proper porcelain clay, but once it was discovered, the production began. Word got out, and other potters from around Japan came to study how the Koreans were creating such fine pieces.
Even though Japan was in isolation (sakoku — forced isolation by shogunates) and trade with other countries was very limited, products from Arita were still being exported at high prices.
As production ramped up, so did the need for other resources, namely firewood to keep the kilns burning. The deforestation in the area became so prevalent that all non-Korean potters were expelled from working in the area. And strict rules and taxes were imposed on this unique craft. The intricate porcelain tableware remained a luxury item up through the 18th century.
Here’s one specific style that was highly sought-after — it involves a signature orange color and clear overglaze:
Today, all types of pottery are sold here, and every year a 5-day festival lines the main street, attracting hundreds of vendors to sell their wares. Festival goers come from all over the country (there were not many foreigners there — which might be why I was interviewed by the local newspaper 😂)
I just went for the day, which was long… not only because it was a good 4-hour bus ride, but also because the fair covered a 4km stretch!
It was truly incredible to see all of the different styles of pottery on display. Even after 5 hours of walking, we kept finding new things!
I brought home several small things, a ramen bowl and spoon for Ed, and a set of handmade onigiri plates.
Fortunately, previous attendees had advised us to bring a rolling luggage bag, which made a lot of sense with all that pottery and all that ground to cover. We really saved our backs with that trick, but our legs and feet were another story!
One of the coolest things, which you can see any time of year, is the way ceramics are integrated in little details all around town — from the signage to the toilets!
This is a very special place! Like most of the places we have visited in Japan, it has its own unique character and embraces it fully. I’m grateful I was able to visit and experience it for myself.
I have a feeling this will be an event I do again! (Let me know if you have any requests for next time!)
Looks like an amazing place!!
Very cool! I’d love to visit the festival too!